Sunday, December 2, 2012

Destination: 詩仙堂 Shisendō

Impression: Shisendō, a small hermitage hidden from view by rows of camelia trees, is one of the great gems of the Ichijōji area. Built in the 1600s by a retired, unmarried scholar and then donated at his death, Shisendō remains one of the great Soto Zen temples of Kyoto. There is a small pathway leading up to the temple through a miniature bamboo grove. What struck me most is the smell of the incense, and how it has permeated the entire site. It was very relaxing to merely stand there, taking in the view, as the aromas filled my lungs.

The garden is quite lovely and varied, and even with so many tourists around, it still felt quiet and relaxing. There is a working sōzu, the clacking bamboo fountain which serves as a Japanese scarecrow, as well as a small waterfall. The maple trees boughs hang quite low, like great red parousels in autumn. It really was gorgeous.

Best Season: Fall and Spring.

History: Shisendō was built by a landscape architect and scholar by the name of Jōzan Ishikawa in 1641. Jōzan was a son of a samurai family in Mikawa Province, and was one of Ieyasu Tokugawa's personal attendants for many years. After retiring from service, he moved to Kyoto and built Shisendō as a hermitage. It is named after the thirty-six classical poets he selected and displayed in the main room, whose portraits can still be seen today. 
 
Jōzan was a master of Chinese poems and Reisho, a type of calligraphy. He also helped bring the art of Sencha to Japan, a type of green tea. Over forty years after his death, a Shingon priest was assigned to the hold the ownership of the villa, and then, in 1743, the prince Kan-in-no-Miya assigned a zen nun to the post. Every since that time, all of the head nuns or priests have all belonged to the Soto Zen group. It is actually listed as one of the temples under the head temple of Soto Zen, Eiheiji, founded by Dogen. 

Address: 
京都府京都市左京区一乗寺門27
27 Monguchichō
, Ichijōji, Kyōto
TEL:075-781-2954
Website: http://kyoto-shisendo.com
 
Hours & Admission:
9:00~17:00, closed May 23
Adults: 500 yen, Students: 400, Children: 200 yen

Photos:
 

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Destination: 西円寺 Saienji

Impression: Saienji is a small temple located almost directly across the street from the famous temple Shisendo. I have crossed by it a number of times in the last year and have never seen it open. It is safe to assume that it is a private temple that is in practical use. If I ever catch it open, I will be sure to update this post however.


Best Season: Unknown.

History: Unknown.

Address: 
京都府京都市左京区一乗寺小谷町16
16 Kodanichō, Ichijōji, Kyōto
TEL:075-791-8667


Hours & Admission:
Unknown

Photos:
 
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Destination: 曼殊院 Manshuin

Impression: The walk up to Manshuin is a gorgeous stroll through the quiet neighborhoods of Sakyō-ku. Especially in fall, the hills are alive with the colors of Kyoto's famous maple trees. Some of the most vibrant colors I've seen in the city turn on this hill, and it is very easy to see why the area is named after it. The complex is quite large, with some minor hiking routes to the northeast, and is very well groomed. 

Photography is not allowed inside, but there are a number of very beautiful artifacts on display, as well as a number of rooms with sliding doors painted in Edo Period woodblocks. They are all quite lovely, and not roped off, so you can enter the rooms and see the art up close. In addition, the gardens are a lovely style known as karesansui, or waterless pond. White sand is captured in a still flow from rocks to give the appearance of a waterfall or pond. The garden is famous for its foliage year round. The temple would be a lovely place to just sit down and sketch. There is a room that also houses many old tableware and serving ware relics as they would have been stored. A secret treasure. 

Best Season: Any Season, Fall will be crowded but worth the visit.

History: Manshuin is actually a relocated temple from the Saito region of Mt. Hiei. It was originally known as Tobibo and was founded by Gengyo Daishi in the 8th century. After it was moved, a prince of the Tomohito family became the first abbot. It was he who orchestrated the move of the temple from north of the imperial palace to its current area, which is in the vicinity of Shugakuin Imperial Villa. The garden and room designs can be largely accredited to Prince Ryosho. It has many treasures within, but two of its most important are a scroll of the deity Acala painted in yellow, as well as the Manshuin edition of the Kokin Waka-shu, or Kokinshu. This collection of poems is a critical collection comprised at imperial request during the Heian Period.

Address: 
京都府京都市左京区一乗寺竹ノ内町42
42 Takenōchichō, Ichijōji, Kyōto
TEL:075-781-5010
Website: http://www.manshuinmonzeki.jp/  (Japanese Only)

Hours & Admission:
9:00~17:00 (Reception closes at 16:30)
Admission: 600 yen Adults, 500 yen Students, 400 yen Children
Parking Available 


Photos:



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Saturday, December 1, 2012

Destination: 北山別院 Kitayama Betsuin

Impression: Kitayama Betsuin had been something of an enigma to me ever since I moved to the area, and I just so happened to pass by it one day when it was finally open. The temple is located directly across from a kindergarten, so does not have much of an all-around aesthetic, yet its great carved doors and bell are quite gorgeous. Similar, giant iron bells and carved wooden doors are plentiful around Kyoto, of course, but they are still quite lovely. The temple does not have a garden and can be perused in about five minutes. Kitayama Betsuin is one of those temples that seems like it is still very much in use, giving it an air of 'private' and less of the touristy vibe you get from most other hot spots in Kyoto. I felt uncomfortable stepping in without having someone to introduce me on-hand.

If you do visit, the one place to not be missed is the old stone well to the left of the temple. There is a small path that will lead you to a tiny, gated garden. The well is unlike any other I have seen in Kyoto, The well is in fact placed in the side of a hill, so you have to stoop down and in to actually access the water. In all honesty, it felt a bit like a horror movie, but I'm still glad I went.  

Best Season: Spring

History: Hongwanji Kitayama Betsuin is a historical site where Shinran Shonin rested for water during a 100-day pilgrimage from Mt. Hiei to Rokkakudo Temple. He undertook this pilgrimage to better understand the methods and efforts he would need in order to obtain enlightenment. He was the founder of the Jodo Shinshu school of Buddhism.

Address: 
京都府京都市左京区一乗寺薬師堂町29
29 Yakushidōchō, Ichijōji, Kyōto
TEL:075-781-5435


Hours & Admission:
Hours not listed.Free Admission


Photos:

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